A total solar eclipse lasts only a short time, but it is worth starting preparations for photographing it much earlier. Good equipment does not have to mean the most expensive kit. What matters more is that it is stable, tested, and suited to the type of photographs you want to take.
You need a different setup for a wide landscape frame, another for a close-up of the solar corona, and another still for photographing through a telescope. In this guide, we focus on choosing equipment: camera, lens, filter, tripod, and tracking mounts that help keep the Sun in the frame.
Safety issues are worth discussing in a separate article, but one rule must appear here already: for the partial phases of an eclipse, you need a proper solar filter mounted in front of the lens, telescope, or binoculars. NASA emphasizes that a special filter is needed to photograph the partially eclipsed Sun, while during totality the filter is removed in order to capture the solar corona.
What camera should you choose for photographing a solar eclipse?
The best camera for an eclipse is one that allows you to work in manual mode and save images in RAW format. It does not have to be the newest model. What matters more is exposure control, the ability to focus manually, and comfortable operation.
Good choices include:
- mirrorless camera,
- digital SLR camera,
- advanced compact camera with manual mode,
- astronomical camera, if you are photographing through a telescope.
What should you pay attention to?
The most important features are manual mode, RAW, live view, image magnification for focusing, the ability to use a remote shutter release, and exposure bracketing. A tilting screen is also useful, especially when the Sun is high above the horizon.
A smartphone can be good for photographing the landscape, people, and the atmosphere during an eclipse. For detailed photographs of the solar disc, corona, and prominences, a camera with a telephoto lens or telescope will be better.
Lens for a solar eclipse: what focal length is best?
The choice of lens depends on whether you want to show the whole event in the landscape or take a close-up of the Sun.
| Type of photograph | Recommended focal length | Effect |
| Landscape and people during the eclipse | 14-35 mm | wide frame, atmosphere of the event |
| Eclipse with a section of sky | 50-135 mm | small solar disc, more surroundings |
| Visible solar disc | 200-400 mm | good compromise for beginners |
| Solar corona and details | 500-800 mm | stronger close-up |
| Telescopic close-ups | 1000-2000 mm | large disc, higher equipment requirements |
Sky & Telescope notes that even a 50 mm lens is enough for wide shots of totality, but for a larger image of the solar disc, a telephoto lens or telescope in the range of about 500-2000 mm is needed. At a focal length of 1000 mm, the image of the Sun on a full-frame sensor is about 9.2 mm in diameter, which gives a good frame for the corona.
For most photographers, the best compromise will be the 400-600 mm range. It already gives a clear close-up, but it is not yet as difficult to track as a telescope with a long focal length.
Is it worth using a telescope instead of a lens?
A telescope can give excellent results, but it is not always the best choice for a first eclipse. It is less convenient, requires a solid mount, and is harder to reposition quickly. If you are planning air travel, changing location because of the weather, or photographing in a crowd, a telephoto lens will be more practical.
A telescope makes sense if you already have experience with astrophotography, know how to set up a mount, and have tested the entire setup on the Sun beforehand. It is not worth taking an untested configuration to an eclipse.
Solar filter for a camera: an essential element
For the partial phases of an eclipse, you need a solar filter placed in front of the lens. Ordinary sunglasses, a random ND filter, or darkened glass are not substitutes.
The AAS explains that the ISO 12312-2 standard applies to filters for direct solar viewing, while filters for cameras, telescopes, and binoculars must be safely mounted in front of the optics and used according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
The most commonly used filters for eclipse photography are:
- solar film in a frame,
- glass solar filter,
- dedicated telescope filter,
- special filter for a photographic lens.
The filter should fit well and be secured against accidentally slipping off. More details are worth moving to a separate article about safety.
Tripod: do not economize on stability
At a focal length of 400 mm and longer, the tripod becomes just as important as the camera. Even a light gust of wind can shake the image, especially during longer exposures at totality.
A good eclipse tripod should be:
- stable,
- resistant to vibration,
- easy to adjust,
- high enough,
- equipped with a head that allows precise framing and tracking.
For shorter focal lengths, a solid photographic tripod is enough. For long telephoto lenses or telescopes, a head with slow-motion controls, an equatorial mount, or a tracking mount will be better.
NASA also recommends using a tripod and shutter delay, as this reduces camera shake in low light and with longer exposure times.
Tracking mount, or star tracker: is it needed for an eclipse?
A tracking mount, often called a star tracker, is a device that rotates the camera at a rate close to the apparent movement of the sky. Thanks to this, the Sun does not leave the frame so quickly, which matters a great deal at long focal lengths.
It is not mandatory equipment, but it can make photographing a total solar eclipse much easier.
When does a tracking mount make sense?
It is worth considering if you use:
- a telephoto lens of 400 mm or longer,
- a telescope,
- a narrow field of view,
- an automatic photo sequence,
- longer exposures of the solar corona,
- two cameras and want one of them to work as independently as possible.
Sky & Telescope points out that at long focal lengths the Sun can quickly drift out of the field of view, causing the photographer to lose precious seconds of totality while manually correcting the frame.
How does a tracking mount work during an eclipse?
The Earth rotates relative to the Sun once in about 24 hours, which causes objects in the sky to move across the frame. NASA describes this motion as the Earth’s rotation relative to the Sun over 24 hours of mean solar time.
In practice, this means that at high magnification the Sun does not stand still. With a wide-angle lens this is not a major problem. At 600 mm, 800 mm, or with a telescope, the movement becomes very noticeable.
A tracking mount compensates for this motion. Properly set up, it allows you to keep the Sun closer to the center of the frame, so you can focus on exposure, bracketing, and removing the filter during totality.
What type of tracking mount should you choose?
1. Lightweight photographic star tracker
This is the best choice for most photographers traveling to an eclipse. It is small, battery-powered, and usually sufficient for a camera with a telephoto lens.
It works well with setups such as:
- camera + 200 mm,
- camera + 300 mm,
- camera + 400 mm,
- lighter 500-600 mm setup, if it is within the device’s payload capacity.
When buying one, check the real payload capacity, not only the value from the advertisement. The setup should include the camera, lens, foot, head, filter mount, and possibly a remote shutter release.
2. Equatorial mount
This is a better solution for heavier setups, especially with a telescope. It is more stable and accurate, but larger, heavier, and slower to set up.
It is worth choosing if you plan to photograph through a telescope or use a very long focal length.
3. Motorized alt-azimuth mount
An alt-azimuth mount can be convenient visually and simpler to operate, but for longer photographic sessions it has limitations, including field rotation. For short eclipse exposures it can work well, but for more advanced photography an equatorial mount or a tracker aligned to the pole will be better.
What should you pay attention to when choosing a star tracker?
The most important features are:
Payload capacity with a margin
Do not use a mount at the limit of its capabilities. If your setup weighs 3 kg, it is better to choose a tracker or mount with a clear payload margin.
Solar tracking mode
Some mounts have a solar rate mode, meaning the tracking speed of the Sun. If they do not, sidereal mode may also be good enough for the short duration of totality, but it is worth testing this beforehand.
Easy daytime alignment
During an eclipse, it is not always possible to align the mount to Polaris. The ability to set the axis using a compass, app, angle gauge, or previous ground markings is useful.
Stable head
The weak point of many setups is not the tracker itself, but the ball head. For a long telephoto lens, a solid photographic head, a head with slow-motion controls, or a dovetail-type mounting system will be better.
Power supply
Check whether the device runs on batteries, rechargeable batteries, or a power bank. Take spares. An eclipse is not a good time to economize on power.
Simple operation
The fewer buttons, cables, and settings, the better. During totality, repeatability matters, not experimentation.
How to prepare a tracking mount before an eclipse?
The most important rule: do not use a tracker for the first time on eclipse day.
Before the trip, run several tests on the regular Sun using a solar filter. Check how long the Sun stays in the frame at your chosen focal length. Practice setting up the mount, framing, changing batteries, and launching an automatic photo sequence.
It is worth preparing:
- marks for the tripod leg positions,
- the mount’s latitude setting,
- a compass or app for finding north,
- a level,
- spare batteries,
- the instruction manual on your phone or printed out.
If you are observing from a location available the day before, you can align the mount more accurately to Polaris in the evening and mark the tripod leg positions. This simple solution saves stress on eclipse day.
Does a beginner photographer need a star tracker?
Not always. If this is your first eclipse and you are using a 200-300 mm lens, a simpler setup may be better. A stable tripod, good filter, manual framing, and a practiced procedure will give you more than a complicated mount you do not know.
A tracker becomes very useful when you photograph with a long telephoto lens, want to take many exposures of the corona, or plan to combine images after the eclipse. In that case, keeping a similar frame throughout the sequence has great value.
Second camera: a very good idea
If you have a second camera, set it up for a wide frame. During a total solar eclipse, it is easy to focus only on the close-up of the Sun and miss the landscape, the Moon’s shadow, people, and the extraordinary light on the horizon.
A good supplementary setup:
- camera or smartphone,
- wide-angle lens,
- small tripod,
- intervalometer or timelapse mode.
Such a setup can work independently while you operate the main camera with the telephoto lens.
Accessories worth taking
Most often, photographs are spoiled not by major mistakes, but by small things: a dead battery, loose filter, missing screw, or too small a memory card.
Useful accessories list:
- spare batteries,
- power bank,
- extra memory cards,
- remote shutter release or intervalometer,
- tape for securing the filter and focus ring,
- lens cloth,
- sunshade or small umbrella for shade,
- headlamp,
- level,
- Allen key for the mount,
- spare quick-release plate,
- printed list of settings and contact times.
The best solar eclipse photography kit by level
Simple kit
For people who want to take souvenir photos and avoid complicating the process.
- camera or smartphone,
- wide-angle lens,
- tripod,
- solar filter for the partial phases,
- app with eclipse contact times.
Intermediate kit
A good choice for most photographers.
- camera with RAW,
- 300-600 mm lens,
- solar filter for the lens,
- solid tripod,
- remote shutter release,
- spare batteries,
- optionally, a lightweight star tracker.
Advanced kit
For people who want to photograph the corona and details at high magnification.
- mirrorless camera or DSLR,
- 600 mm telephoto lens or telescope,
- solar filter for the optics,
- tracking mount or equatorial mount,
- intervalometer,
- prepared exposure sequence,
- second camera for a wide frame.
What should you not buy just before an eclipse?
Do not buy complicated equipment at the last minute. A new mount, new telescope, or new camera can give excellent results, but only if you know how to use it.
The riskiest purchases shortly before departure are:
- first telescope,
- first equatorial mount,
- untested filter,
- heavy telephoto lens without a stable tripod,
- cheap head for a long lens,
- random glasses or filters from an uncertain source.
It is better to have a simpler setup that works flawlessly than advanced equipment that requires learning at the most important moment.
Summary: what equipment should you choose for photographing an eclipse?
The best equipment for photographing a total solar eclipse is equipment that matches your experience and planned frame. For wide shots, a camera, lens, and tripod are enough. For close-ups, you need a telephoto lens, solid mounting, and a solar filter. For long focal lengths, a tracking mount becomes very useful, keeping the Sun in the frame and allowing you to photograph totality more calmly.
The most important thing, however, is testing in advance. Practice with the whole setup before the eclipse, check framing, focus, stability, filter, and power. On the day of the event, your equipment should already be just a tool, not a problem to solve.
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